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The Right Comb

How to Choose the Right Comb

Achieving and maintaining healthy hair requires more than just your favorite shampoo or conditioner.  Having the right tools and techniques is just as important in your daily hair care regimen.

There are two primary functions for using a comb: (1) to help separate and detangle the individual hairs so that your brush can reach the scalp to release the *sebum, stimulate blood circulation, and to remove dirt. (2) to assist in creating your preferred cut, style, and technique.

There are many types of combs to choose from.  Selecting the right comb for your hair care regimen depends on a few factors: think about your wash day, hair texture, the volume of hair strands, your detangling session (do you use small sections), and how you style your hair.

No matter what hair type you have, it is very important to have combs with various spacing between the teeth.  Additional factors you should consider is knowing the quality and material your comb is made of.

Here you will find a list of combs that belong in your collection and the purpose and function they serve.


The must have comb for all hair types is the extra wide tooth combs.  These combs are considered large rakes due to the generous spacing between the teeth and overall size  and diameter of each individual tooth.  The combination of these attributes helps to comb and detangle wet or dry hair while preventing hair breakage.  These combs are much larger than the average wide tooth combs.  Extra wide tooth combs, such as the Magic Star Jumbo Rake and Magic mini Star Rake can tackle the toughest jobs for combing and detangling wet or dry hair.  Whether your hair is short, curly, thick or very long, the Magic Star Rakes can handle it.  This comb also works perfectly as a shower comb.  The extra wide tooth comb is a “must have” in the 1st phase of the 3Comb Smooth.


The wide tooth combs have teeth that are spaced well apart.  These combs are suitable for all hair textures and lengths including curly, thick, straight and long hair.  Wide tooth combs can detangle wet or dry hair.  Wide tooth combs can be used in the 1st and 2nd phase of the 3Comb Smooth.


The medium tooth combs are spaced fairly closer together in comparison to the wide tooth combs.  These combs serve a purpose of bringing the hair strands closer together, yet not as much as a fine tooth comb.  The medium tooth comb should only be used after using an extra wide or wide tooth comb if you have very thick or curly hair.  However, if you have medium or fine hair type, a medium comb may be suitable as an everyday comb.  Medium tooth combs can be used in either the 2nd or 3rd phase of the 3Comb Smooth.


The fine tooth combs have teeth that are very close together.  Fine teeth are usually found on a tail, pintail, or cutting comb.  There are various degrees of spacing for “fine” teeth.  Some fine teeth, can be extremely close together or somewhat wide but are still considered fine.

  • Cutting combs are designed with a fine half and a wide half.  The wide half is much wider than the fine half.  Even though the teeth are wide, they should not be compared to an actual “wide tooth” comb.  Both the wide and fine half helps to smooth and bring the hair strands together when working with small, individual sections.  Not only can a cutting comb be used to cut the hair, the comb can be used when styling wet styles such as a roller set.
  • Tail and Pin Tail combs are also designed with various degrees of fine to wide spacing between the teeth.  Both combs have tails for parting and sectioning the hair.  The comb and tail portions work together simultaneously in your hand as you part, section and comb the hair.  These combs are excellent when working with wet hair.  Use the tail to part and make sections during a roller set, then you can conveniently flip the comb to comb the section of hair.  The main difference between a tail and pin tail comb is that a pintail has a metal tail used for foil highlighting.  However, the pintail can be used for sectioning just like the tail comb.
  • Backcombing combs are designed to tease the hair to add volume to the hair.  Teasing is a method of actually combing the hair strands backwards.  If this method is not performed correctly, it can cause serious damage to the hair.  Therefore, we recommend that you seek assistance from your stylist on how to properly use a backcomb.  hotCombs offers a professional grade backcombing comb specifically designed for teasing the hair.
  • Colorgraphic combs are the newest tools for hair stylists.  The colorgraphic comb was designed to cut, style and color the hair.  It has a sectioning tooth to part the hair and an embedded groove to precisely color hair exactly where you want it.


And finally, the most important rule for selecting your combs, is breaking the rules!  Always use your best judgment for what is right for you and your hair type.  Ultimately, no one knows your desires, needs or wants better than you.  Don’t limit your combs, be creative and flexible with your comb collection.

Tip: Use nothing but the best on your hair…even at the salon!  Consult with your stylist about using your comb(s) at all of your appointments.  Remember, if it’s not a Hercules Sägemann comb, it’s just a simple comb.  See for yourself!


The molding tools and the combination of raw materials used for production are the determinants of a comb’s quality and properties.  Combs should be made from a natural hard rubber or a high-quality thermoplastic.

  • *Vulcanized natural hard rubber is a very durable material and resistant to chemicals.  The surface of the combs are very smooth.  These combs are hand-cut, hand-sawn, and hand-polished, to a shiny finish.  View The Black Masterpiece.
  • **Thermoplastic is a high-quality, lightweight material that is heat resistant, and shatter resistant.  The toughness and durability of thermoplastic parallels closely to the benefits of natural hard rubber.  Therefore, proving to have an advantage over low-end quality plastic.

Also View: 3Comb Smooth | How To Clean Your Comb

3Comb Smooth is a 3-step combing process for detangling and smoothing wet hair.

*Vulcanized: the process of hardening the natural rubber in hot steam. This allows the rubber to be harder, much more durable, more resistant to chemicals, and makes the surface of the material smoother.

**Thermoplastic combs offered by hotCombs may have the appearance of seams on the teeth due to the molding process. However, our combs are shaped in premium quality molds in a single production step, therefore, our combs are free of uneven edges and seams. The key factor is that the seams are “even” and smooth. Uneven seams on the teeth are the culprits that will snag and tear the hair. Rest assured, our thermoplastic combs are manufactured at the highest level and quality control measures for a plastic comb.